Vapor
05-24-2007, 08:21 PM
I started this post as a reply to 'Cammies', but felt it should get its own topic for discussion. I didn't want to sound like I was dodging the question so I thought some might find an elaboration regarding concealment useful... rather than saying 'it depends' and leaving it at that.
I don't claim to be an authority on concealment, but I have maintained a concealed position on over 100 different individuals and squads of all skill levels within 30 feet and as close as almost being tripped on. I have no military training, but I have engaged in combat simulation in close proximity for over a decade, with much careful scrutiny. As such my views are my opinions, and don’t represent the views or opinions of the military. I’m always looking to expand my understanding so I welcome criticism or corrections from anyone who justifiably feels they have a better understanding of concealment, or anything worth adding.
In my experience woodland MARPAT (or some variant) offers the best blending characteristics of all flat 2 dimensional patterns that I’ve seen in a woodland environment. I have no experience in other environments and therefore cannot comment on them.
Competitors are possibly digitized Tigerstripe. The larger, horizontal, black regions (as compared to MARPAT) are possibly better at simulating shadows and thus depth at a great distance. I feel at that distance being in a naturally shaded area is more ideal. At closer ranges the larger black regions will catch the eye more frequently. They are uniformly solid (given their larger area), and too circular, and thus not commonly found in nature in close proximity.
I think MARPAT makes the best base to add breakup materials - those that will alter your shape. All 2D camouflage will do nothing to change your shape. Thus, if you don’t have a foreground (what’s between you and a potential observer) that breaks up your shape sufficiently, no camouflage pattern alone will effectively conceal your presence. Maintaining adequate natural breakup between you and an observer is also difficult when you're required to move. Your background is of equal importance - if you contrast with it you will be silhouetted against it.
MARPAT makes a great base in that it looks like a random assortment of green vegetation, sticks, dirt, dry dirt, and shadows cast by small objects. The different colored regions tend to be of similar dimension to the objects they are intended to represent. They are not oversized and thus not easy to separate from their background or each other. Pixelation of the pattern also makes it more difficult for the brain to separate the individual color regions. The randomization of the pattern allows you to overlay different portions of the pattern without noticeable contrast. A quick example to demonstrate the effectiveness of the pattern randomization: I have an MP7 covered in MARPAT cloth. I had it hanging from a sling wrapped in MARPAT. I was holding it with gloves covered in MARPAT. Remember you don't want any edges to be distinctive shapes: neither round nor straight - jagged. I was talking to a group of 5 people at a distance of 5-10 feet in broad daylight. They pointed out none of them noticed I was holding a weapon until one pointed out they realized I was about 5 minutes into conversation.
I believe the MARPAT color scheme is an adequate representation of your typical forest floor. This is your base. From this if you wish to be properly concealed you need to add other materials to break up your shape. You want to disrupt all the perceptual models that fit humans or objects they carry that are not commonly found in nature. For instance: fingers, skin color, reflective surfaces, straight lines (rifle, straps, legs, belt), partial spheres - such as the shoulders + head are not commonly found in nature and need to be covered, or broken up. Change the shape to a shape found in nature in an area with a large assortment of small objects. You’re never going to look like a tree, so that Mossy Oak isn't going to cut it close proximity. The brain ignores excessive detail as long as it doesn't contrast with its surroundings. A tree branch is not very detailed.
I personally use a combination of strips of MARPAT, burlap, netting, fake and real vegetation to breakup the perceptual models.
Take 6x3 strips of MARPAT (pattern printed on both sides) with random patterns cut into all edges. Fold it a few times, and then cut the edges at various angles. No edge should be a long straight line as they don’t exist in nature. Take the strip and sew it in the center to your BDU’s/boonie/cap where you need to break up your shape. Your head and face are particularly important as they will be exposed most often. They are also the best target. This material is best used on the head. A burlap veil will absorb sound (preventing reception at the ear), and limit field of view.
Burlap strands tend to be sold unnaturally long. Cut them down somewhat, and use it in more locations.
Netting gets snagged on brush. Use it on your back where this is less likely. Cut it in some places so it doesn’t snag as often.
Fake vegetation can be easily removed, and exchanged with other types. Rag shop sells various types of leaves attached to a stem. The leaves easily detach from the stem and can be replaced with other leaves. Insert the stem into your BDU such that you can add and remove the leaves. Pick leaves that resemble vegetation common to underbrush in your intended area of operation (ex small ferns). You don’t want something that plums out, acting like an antenna pointing to your location and indicating your direction of movement. You also don’t want a leaf that commonly grows on trees. You shouldn’t spend much time in trees if getting down under potential observation is a requirement. Use what commonly grows close to the ground. Affix all leaves such that they stand upright when lying prone. The leave should be flexible enough that is sways with the wind, but doesn’t shake or easily transmit vibration.
Real vegetation wilts, and falls off. Loose vegetation on the ground will be useful to a tracker. It is also very difficult to affix in an upright, natural growing position. It is often inserted in clumps, though it usually grows evenly spaced. Dried leaves are ideal if present as they are naturally scattered on the ground, in no particular orientation. They are used best inserted into loose fitting netting. I prefer fake vegetation to real vegetation, but the best materials you can use to represent your environment are components of your environment.
Using a collection of various materials, with densities and proportions varying at each location, is the best approach to breaking up shape, and presenting an inconsistent texture. Never use symmetry. Also, a single, consistent material (such as all burlap, all MARPAT) will be more easily spotted.
I don't claim to be an authority on concealment, but I have maintained a concealed position on over 100 different individuals and squads of all skill levels within 30 feet and as close as almost being tripped on. I have no military training, but I have engaged in combat simulation in close proximity for over a decade, with much careful scrutiny. As such my views are my opinions, and don’t represent the views or opinions of the military. I’m always looking to expand my understanding so I welcome criticism or corrections from anyone who justifiably feels they have a better understanding of concealment, or anything worth adding.
In my experience woodland MARPAT (or some variant) offers the best blending characteristics of all flat 2 dimensional patterns that I’ve seen in a woodland environment. I have no experience in other environments and therefore cannot comment on them.
Competitors are possibly digitized Tigerstripe. The larger, horizontal, black regions (as compared to MARPAT) are possibly better at simulating shadows and thus depth at a great distance. I feel at that distance being in a naturally shaded area is more ideal. At closer ranges the larger black regions will catch the eye more frequently. They are uniformly solid (given their larger area), and too circular, and thus not commonly found in nature in close proximity.
I think MARPAT makes the best base to add breakup materials - those that will alter your shape. All 2D camouflage will do nothing to change your shape. Thus, if you don’t have a foreground (what’s between you and a potential observer) that breaks up your shape sufficiently, no camouflage pattern alone will effectively conceal your presence. Maintaining adequate natural breakup between you and an observer is also difficult when you're required to move. Your background is of equal importance - if you contrast with it you will be silhouetted against it.
MARPAT makes a great base in that it looks like a random assortment of green vegetation, sticks, dirt, dry dirt, and shadows cast by small objects. The different colored regions tend to be of similar dimension to the objects they are intended to represent. They are not oversized and thus not easy to separate from their background or each other. Pixelation of the pattern also makes it more difficult for the brain to separate the individual color regions. The randomization of the pattern allows you to overlay different portions of the pattern without noticeable contrast. A quick example to demonstrate the effectiveness of the pattern randomization: I have an MP7 covered in MARPAT cloth. I had it hanging from a sling wrapped in MARPAT. I was holding it with gloves covered in MARPAT. Remember you don't want any edges to be distinctive shapes: neither round nor straight - jagged. I was talking to a group of 5 people at a distance of 5-10 feet in broad daylight. They pointed out none of them noticed I was holding a weapon until one pointed out they realized I was about 5 minutes into conversation.
I believe the MARPAT color scheme is an adequate representation of your typical forest floor. This is your base. From this if you wish to be properly concealed you need to add other materials to break up your shape. You want to disrupt all the perceptual models that fit humans or objects they carry that are not commonly found in nature. For instance: fingers, skin color, reflective surfaces, straight lines (rifle, straps, legs, belt), partial spheres - such as the shoulders + head are not commonly found in nature and need to be covered, or broken up. Change the shape to a shape found in nature in an area with a large assortment of small objects. You’re never going to look like a tree, so that Mossy Oak isn't going to cut it close proximity. The brain ignores excessive detail as long as it doesn't contrast with its surroundings. A tree branch is not very detailed.
I personally use a combination of strips of MARPAT, burlap, netting, fake and real vegetation to breakup the perceptual models.
Take 6x3 strips of MARPAT (pattern printed on both sides) with random patterns cut into all edges. Fold it a few times, and then cut the edges at various angles. No edge should be a long straight line as they don’t exist in nature. Take the strip and sew it in the center to your BDU’s/boonie/cap where you need to break up your shape. Your head and face are particularly important as they will be exposed most often. They are also the best target. This material is best used on the head. A burlap veil will absorb sound (preventing reception at the ear), and limit field of view.
Burlap strands tend to be sold unnaturally long. Cut them down somewhat, and use it in more locations.
Netting gets snagged on brush. Use it on your back where this is less likely. Cut it in some places so it doesn’t snag as often.
Fake vegetation can be easily removed, and exchanged with other types. Rag shop sells various types of leaves attached to a stem. The leaves easily detach from the stem and can be replaced with other leaves. Insert the stem into your BDU such that you can add and remove the leaves. Pick leaves that resemble vegetation common to underbrush in your intended area of operation (ex small ferns). You don’t want something that plums out, acting like an antenna pointing to your location and indicating your direction of movement. You also don’t want a leaf that commonly grows on trees. You shouldn’t spend much time in trees if getting down under potential observation is a requirement. Use what commonly grows close to the ground. Affix all leaves such that they stand upright when lying prone. The leave should be flexible enough that is sways with the wind, but doesn’t shake or easily transmit vibration.
Real vegetation wilts, and falls off. Loose vegetation on the ground will be useful to a tracker. It is also very difficult to affix in an upright, natural growing position. It is often inserted in clumps, though it usually grows evenly spaced. Dried leaves are ideal if present as they are naturally scattered on the ground, in no particular orientation. They are used best inserted into loose fitting netting. I prefer fake vegetation to real vegetation, but the best materials you can use to represent your environment are components of your environment.
Using a collection of various materials, with densities and proportions varying at each location, is the best approach to breaking up shape, and presenting an inconsistent texture. Never use symmetry. Also, a single, consistent material (such as all burlap, all MARPAT) will be more easily spotted.